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|Name Of Book||The Raw Materials of Perfumery Poucher|
Authors: Poucher, W.A.
Editors: Jouhar, A.J. (Ed.)
This classic work by Poucher, first published in 1923, was last produced in three volumes titled, respectively The Raw Materials of Perfumery (seventh edition, 1974), The Production, Manufacture and Application of Perfumes (eighth edition, 1974) and Modern Cosmetics (eighth edition, 1974). Its popularity is well demonstrated by there having been three reprints of these editions in 1976, 1979 and 1984, respectively . The history of events can be traced by reference to the prefaces to earlier editions and those interested should study these with care since they give a fascinating insight into developments in the subject fields covered by Poucher''s Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps over the years. It is not proposed to provide a resume here. In this Volume I, the current edition attempts to provide data about raw materials in a more formalized way than before, so that not only the history of some compounds can be checked, but also so that useful reference information can be obtained. It is particularly relevant to do this, since it is not always easy to be certain of nomenclature. Moreover, as we move towards ''ingredient labelling'' (a trend not welcomed by some), a high level of uniformity will be needed. Whether this will come from adoption of CTFA terminology, use of CAS numbers or some other system is not clear. Where possible, such data have been included so that readers may identify materials more readily. Where given, CAS numbers are located in the top right-hand corner of each entry.
Appendix of common names
Perfume molecules are compounds of carbon and hence come under the general heading of organic chemistry. Our bodies are also composed of organic chemicals and so are most of the components of consumer goods such as soaps and detergents. Understanding Fragrance Chemistry therefore concentrates on those aspects of organic chemistry, which are of particular importance to the fragrance industry. It is intended for those who have little or no previous training in chemistry and who would like to know enough in order to improve their understanding of perfume and its interactions with the wide variety of products in which it is used.
Each chapter has review questions which allow readers to check their understanding of the content, and glossaries are provided where appropriate. A chapter on chemical information and a bibliography will help those who want to read more on any of the subjects covered.
Note: Also available in this comprehensive set are botanical information, detailed odor and flavor descriptions, suggested uses, literature references and some safety and regulatory information.
This is the first book by the world’s only Professor de Perfumes, and it is as captivating as it is informative. Beginning with a comprehensive discussion of the sense of smell and the materials of the master perfumer, The Essence of Perfume goes on to celebrate the great classics, the makers who brought them to life and the designers who gave them shape. In an age where the methods and motivations of the original perfumers are all but forgotten, Roja Dove unfolds the gripping story of scent with all the passion and devotion of a true artist.
The Essence of Perfume praised in Grazia and Vogue:
This comprehensive reference discusses several hundred compounds comprising most of the materials used in the perfumery and flavoring industry. Includes:
Arctander's Book and/or CD Rom compiled by Steffen Arctander and is available in 3 volumes with hardcover binding as mentioned below:
Aroma Chemicals Vol. 1
Aroma Chemicals Vol. 2
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origins
These books were published in 1960 and 1969 respectively and reprinted in 2000.
Owing to their extensive demand and popularity, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin and Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals) are back in the market and are available in an exclusive three-book set that includes almost 90% of all chemicals presently used in flavors and fragrances, monographs, all known natural essential oils, extracts, oleoresins along with chemical structure, practical physical data, appearance, odor and flavor type. This set also includes botanical information, detailed odor and flavor descriptions, suggested uses, literature references and some safety and regulatory information.
Every information that one can find in Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin and Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Aroma Chemicals) is now also available in a CD-ROM. This is a simple and quick way of finding any particular information with the help of click of the mouse.
By Tony Curtis and David G Williams
Second Edition, 2008
189 x 246 mm, 7.5" x 10"
Hardback, 800 pages
this book has become the standard reference work for perfumery students throughout the world. Intended as a first-year text, the book assumes no prior knowledge of perfumery. The authors provide integrated coverage of topics from raw materials to supermarket shelves, from science to creation, and through to marketing and business policy.
The power of fragrances to communicate is strongly emphasized and an explicit framework of odour vocabulary provided. Detailed discussion is included of the new product development process and the central role of the perfume brief. For this edition, all chapters have been revised, some considerably, and the book will be of great value to any writer or researcher wishing to consider any issues relating to fragranced products.
Tony Curtis, Principal Lecturer in Business Policy and International Business, Plymouth Business School, Plymouth University, has many years of experience in the aroma trades industry in research, development, production, application, creative perfumery, evaluations and marketing. He lectures on international business with special emphasis on the aroma trades.
The late David Williams was a consultant and author of books on essential oils. He taught and developed the teaching of perfume technology in both further and higher education, in industry and by distance learning.
“This will be a very useful tool for those looking for a comprehensive text on the business of perfumery.”
Felix Buccelato, Perfumer & Flavorist, May 2002
"This book gives a good overview of the perfumery industry and the materials and techniques used in the creation and manufacture of perfumes. The book is good for those interested in an academic style of training and a must read for those thinking of starting their own business in the field of perfumery. It explains the basic chemistry considerations of aroma chemicals in an easy to read and understand way and is good for those without a chemistry background."
From a review of the 1st edition, published on the web site of Perfumers World
...Intended as a first-year university text, (it) provides information on aspects of the business of perfumery, from the properties of the materials used to the techniques used to market the finished fragrances. ....
I firmly believe this is the best text book anyone can buy who wants to know about the perfumery industry.... it is highly recommended.... this book has been a great help to me throughout my university course in perfumery...
It will serve as a thorough introductory text for all those interested in the molecular world of odors.
This book is written for everyone who wants to know more about the molecular basis of odor, and the relationships between chemical structures and olfactory properties. The great structural diversity of odorants, their synthesis, natural occurrence and their structure odor correlation demonstrate what a fascinating science Fragrance Chemistry indeed is.
Table of Contents:
Art, Science and Technology
Muller, P.M., Lamparsky, D. (Eds.)
The idea of publishing this book on Perfumes: Art, Science and Technology grew out of the observation that, on the verge of the 1990s, there was really no state-of-the-art compilation of the relevant know-how on which the fragrance industry is based. It was obvious that such a compilation would be well received, not only by perfumers and fragrance chemists, but also by those involved in related trade and marketing or in the development and distribution of consumer products, by researchers from other fields, by students and, finally, by amateurs of perfumes in general. Therefore, we set out to find competent authors who were willing to contribute to the endeavour, and we did not do this unselfishly; on the contrary, we selected a wish-list of specialists who would provide us with new insight and characterize the trends and research priorities determining the future. Thus, we were counting on learning much ourselves in the course of the project. We were more than pleasantly surprised by the reactions to our first letter-and so was Elsevier. We certainly had not expected perfumers who are usually much more 'doers' than 'writers' to react in such an enthusiastic way; especially, the spontaneous affirmative answer from the famous E. Roudnitska created a momentum which contributed significantly to the successful comple tion of this book. But, of course, we should not create the impression that the other authors' chapters are less important, and we thank all of them heartily for their invaluable effort.
TABLE OF CONTENTS :
I: Perfumery as An Art.
Chapter 1: The Art of Perfumery.
II: Perfumery as A Topic in Life Sciences.
Chapter 2: Odours and Perfumes as a System of Signs.
Chapter 3: Semiochemicals: Mevalogenins in Systems of Chemical Communication.
Chapter 4: Origin of Natural Odorants.
Chapter 5: A Consideration of Some Psychological and Physiological Mechanisms of Odor Perception.
- III: Trapping and Measuring of Odours.
Chapter 6: The Measuring of Odors.
Chapter 7: Trapping, Investigation and Reconstitution of Flower Scents.
- IV: Classification of Odours.
Chapter 8: Empirical Classification of Odours.
Chapter 9: Chemical Classification and Structure—Odour Relationships.
- V: Compository Techniques and Application Segments.
Chapter 10: Creative Perfumery: Composition Techniques.
Chapter 11: Support Materials for Odorant Mixtures.
Chapter 12: Perfumery Applications: Functional Products.
Chapter 13: The Impact of Market Research.
- VI: Production of Perfumes.
Chapter 14: The Chemistry of Synthetic Raw Materials Production.
Chapter 15: Compounding.
Chapter 16: The Toxicology and Safety of Fragrances.
Chapter 17: The Fragrance Industry in a Changing World.
- VII: Topics in Perfumery Research.
Chapter 18: Receptors: Current Status and Future Directions.
Chapter 19: Natural Products.
Chapter 20: Synthetic Products.
- List of Contributors.
Authors: Poucher, W.A.Price : Rs.4200
During the past decade there have been many changes in the perfumery industry which are not so much due to the discovery and application of new raw materials, but rather to the astronomic increase in the cost of labour required to produce them. This is reflected more particularly in the flower industry, where the cost of collecting the blossoms delivered to the factories has gone up year after year, so much so that most flowers with the possible exception of Mimosa, have reached a cost price which has compelled the perfumer to either reduce his purchases of absolutes and concretes, or alternatively to substitute them from a cheaper source, or even to discontinue their use. This development raises an important and almost insoluble problem for the perfumer, who is faced with the necessity of trying to keep unchanged the bouquet of his fragrances, and moreover, to ensure no loss of strength and diffusiveness. Of course, this problem applies more especially to the adjustment of formulae for established perfumes, because in every new creation the present high cost of raw materials receives imperative consideration before the formula is approved.Table of contents (13 chapters)
The Production of Natural Perfumes
The Purchase and Use of Flower Absolutes
Odour Classification and Fixation
Monographs on Flower Perfumes
Miscellaneous Fancy Perfumes
Incense and Fumigants
Sachels and Solid Perfumes
Inspired by Dougal Stermer's book 'Vanishing Flora', Roman Kaiser worked for more than ten years on collecting the scent of 267 endangered plant species worldwide. In the present volume, he invites us to a journey along the hotspots of biodiversity, all of them bearing endangered species, and discusses their scents. This compilation renders the book an important contribution to the UN International Year of Biodiversity.
TABLE OF CONTENTS :
Introduction to the 'Scent of the Vanishing Flora'
Extinction of Species and Monitoring Endangered Species
Investigating the Scent of the Vanishing Flora
Illustrating the Scent of the Vanishing Flora
No More Existing in Nature
Ten Icon Species of the Vanishing Flora
The Scent of 'Living Fossils'
A Brief Look into Rainforests and Associated Biotopes
Hawaii's Vanishing Flora
The Cape Floral Kingdom, a Closer Look at One of the Hotspots of Biodiversity
Endangered Species of My Home Country
Some Additional Protected and Endangered Species
The Icon Family of the Vanishing Flora: Orchidaceae
Orchids of the American Tropic
Orchids of the African Tropic
Orchids of the Indo-Australian Tropics and Subtropics
Compositions of the Presented Scents
Synthesis of New Compounds
Fragrance for Personal Care delivers to the reader a gamut of information from Formulation and Technology to Marketing and Trends and, therefore, reaches a wide audience with research scientists, chemists/formulators, marketing and sales, business owners and fragrance entrepreneurs.
This informative collection of articles covers a variety of topics to creat a solid foundation of knowledge about Fragrance for Personal Care in the cosmetics industry.
Artistry and Craft
Essential Oils and Aroma Chemicals
Naturals and Organics
Packaging and Branding
Regulatory and Business
Technology and Formulation
Marketing and Trends
By Frosch, Peter J.; Johansen, Jeanne D.; White, Ian R. (Eds.)
State-of-the art overview by well-known international specialists * Contributions deal with the unwelcome effects of aromas * Up-to-date knowledge on the environmental tolerability of certain aromas due to accumulation in the environment, a problem area receiving increasingly frequent attention, is presented
Appendix of common names
FORMULARY OF PERFUMERY
- THE PERFUME INDUSTRY
- THE RAW MATERIALS OF THE PERFUMER
PART I: SYNTHETIC PERFUMES AND 100% COMPOSITIONS
- SOLUBILITY TABLE OF TERPENELESS ESSENTIAL OILS
- SOLUBILITY TABLE OF PRINCIPAL SYNTHETIC PERFUMES
- TABLE OF COMPOSITIONS OF MOST FREQUENTLY USED ESSENTIAL OILS
- TABLE OF CONSTITUENTS OF COMMERCIALLY USED ESSENTIAL OILS
- COMPARISON BETWEEN SOLUBILITIES OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND TERPENELESS ESSENCES
- TABLE OF CONCENTRATIONS OF TERPENELESS ESSENCES
- FLORAL COMPOSITIONS
- TABLE OF FLORAL FAMILIES
FAMILY OF JASMINES
- Jasmine Variety
- Lilac variety
- Lily of the Valley Variety
- Cyclamen Variety
- Mock Orange
- Ylang Ylang Variety
- Neroli Variety
- Acacia Variety
- Sweet Pea Variety
FAMILY OF NARCISSUS
- Narcissus Variety
- Hyacinth Variety
- Jonquil Variety
- Gardenia Variety
- Honeysuckle Variety
- Violet Variety
- Iris (Orris)
- Mignonette (Reseda) Variety
- Artificial Bergamot
- Fern Variety
Meaningful Scents Around the World: Olfactory, Chemical, Biological, and Cultural Considerations naturally supports the latest knowledge of the anatomy and physiology of olfaction, and a growing appreciation of scent.
This book is a must for all professionals in the perfume industry.
Following an introductory section to the world of natural scents, including their biological meaning and history, the fragrance and flavor chemist, Roman Kaiser, who is renowned for his 'headspace' analytical technique, revisits some memorable scents. In doing so, he leads us to such exotic places as Lower Amazonia, Papua New Guinea, India, and many rain-forest biotopes in his quest for new molecules and new scent concepts, showing us along the way how a scent like tatami can be linked to culture.
The third and final section describes the analysis of the compositions of the presented scents.
Introduction to the World of Natural Scents
Strolling in the World of Scents
This edition of Antiperspirants and Deodorants, so extensively updated and rewritten that it is virtually a new book, highlights the latest developments in ingredients, products, and patents in the decade since the publication of the first edition—reviewing current regulatory issues, questions about safety and toxicology, testing, and recent data on skin microorganisms, odor generation, and sweat gland physiology.
Containing the wealth of information found in the original publication, this unique reference combines the work of recognized authorities from industry and academia, and includes valuable information for researchers, product development scientists, manufacturers, and marketers in the field of antiperspirants and deodorants.
Antiperspirants and Deodorants 2nd Edition traces the history of these cosmetic products, considers government regulation of the industry and how it affects marketing, provides an overview of the structure and function of eccrine and apocrine sweat glands, describes the chemistry of antiperspirant salts, and explores deodorant ingredients.
What's new… about the Second Edition of Antiperspirants and Deodorants?
Author(s) : Teixeira & Rodriguez & Gomes & Mata & Rodrigues
Pages: 170 Dimensions: 229 X 152
Discover the secrets behind fragrance formulation and evaluation of fragrance performance!
Perfume Engineering is a must-have reference for engineers who design any products that require fragrances, such as perfumes, cosmetics, healthcare and cleaning products.
This book provides the reader with practical guidance on perfume design, performance and classification, from its beginnings as a liquid mixture to the vapour phase, by way of odorant dispersion and olfactory perception. It does this through the application of development and validation models to account for fragrance evaporation, propagation and perception.
Chemical engineers working in the flavour and fragrance market
Table of Contents:
1 A Product Engineering Approach in the Perfume Industry;
1.1 The Flavor and Fragrance Market;
1.2 From the Idea to Market: Product Engineering; References;
2 Design of Perfumes;
2.1 The Perfumery Ternary Diagram;
2.1.1 Odor Intensity Model;
2.1.2 Vapor-Liquid Equilibrium;
2.1.3 Odor Quality Model;
2.1.4 Construction of the PTD®;
2.1.5 The Relevance of the Activity Coefficient;
2.2 Application of the PTD® Methodology: Effect of Base Notes;
2.3 The Perfumery Quaternary-Quinary Diagram (PQ2D®)
2.4 Perfumery Octonary System;
2.5 Conclusion; References;
3 Performance of Perfumes;
3.1 Fragrance Performance;
3.2 The Relevance of the Selection of Fragrance Ingredients;
3.3 Evaporation of Fragrance Chemicals;
3.4 Diffusion of Fragrances;
3.5 Conclusion; References;
4 Classification of Perfumes-Perfumery Radar;
4.1 The Perception of Odor
4.2 Classification of Perfumes;
4.3 The Perfumery Radar (PR) Methodology;
4.4 Applications of the PR Methodology;
4.5 Experimental Validation of the PR Methodology
4.6 Evolution of the PR with Evaporation and Diffusion;
4.7 Final Considerations on the PR Methodology;
4.8 Conclusion; References;
5 Looking Ahead;
5.1 Unraveling the Sense of Olfaction;
5.2 The Role of Perfume Engineering;
5.3 Fragrance Performance: Different Routes;
5.4 Fragrance Stability;
5.5 Integrative Approach for Product Development: The Role of Microeconomics and Planning Strategies